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Monday, June 30, 2008

Climbing Magazine, Justin Roth Visits Athen, Ohio

After years of unearthing sandy pebbles in Athens, Ohio, our small climbing community received a little recognition.  For those of you who weren't mentioned, but definitely helped in pioneering the bouldering movement: Drew (last name draws a blank?), Matt White, Luke Swan, Eric Arvai, and Tim Rice, thanks for all of your hard work.  Check out the link below for the Athens Bouldering "Climbing Exclusive."


If you scroll to my February archives, 2nd posting, is a video of me grabbing the 2nd ascent of Jack the Ripper, which is the first picture on Justin's blog.  The "Richland Boulder" was the last jewel I found (along with Tim Rice), unearthed, and cleaned before leaving Athens.  Recently, I heard it was under access issues.  To bad, hopefully that gets sorted out.  

Friday, June 27, 2008

Blue Ridge Express

Recently, I've been waiting on pictures that Randy Cooper took on a recent trip to the New (6/17 & 6/18).  Randy captured some great pictures on my red-point ascent of "Agent Orange" (via top-rope anchor), and some great shots leading Spectre on gear.  In the mean time, I captured some footage on a recent plane ride from NYC to Beckley, WV.  Most of the trip was spent traveling through the Appalachian Mtns. and dodging afternoon thunderstorms (We traveled at 4500 ft and were surrounded by spectacular views).  I'm going to be stationed in Beckley, WV for the next two weeks, which is a 1/2 hr. south of the New, so expect to see some more action from the New River Gorge.

Sorry for the camera stabilization, the plane ride was a little turbulent during this portion of the trip.  The helicopter pictures were taken at Westchester Co. Airport before takeoff. 

Looking down the nose of a Black Hawk

Side view of a Cobra

Wednesday, June 11, 2008

Back to New River Gorgeous

This past weekend (7th & 8th) I made it over to the New River Gorge, and met up with my friend Randy Cooper.  We were both excited to climb Agent Orange and do some "swimming" at Summersville.  On Saturday (7th) we met at the Bridge Buttress and I confronted Agent Orange for the first time.  I had heard so many good things about this route, and was eager to climb it.  The conditions were perfect, we had sweaty rock, upper 90's, and that oh so wonderful misty mountain air.  My first attempt granted me a 30 ft. whipper, and I met my belayer about 20 ft. from the ground (Randy only weighs 135 soaking wet, and I weigh 175).  On my second go I was able to top rope Agent Orange clean, and that inspired me for a red-point attempt.  The red-point attempt was going smooth, up until the point where I switched gear beta.  I switched from a BD #1 to a #2, which took away a hand jam I needed (The #2 fit great though).   Despite the conditions, Agent Orange still climbed really well, I can't wait to get back on it in the Fall.  The shots of Agent Orange and Tony the Tiger didn't turn out as well as I wanted them to.  The sun reflections messed with the white metering, and in return did not capture the beautiful orange streaks on both routes. 

Summersville Lake

"Agent Orange"

Looking up at "Tony the Tiger"

Tuesday, June 10, 2008

More from Mcafee's Knob

I have been frequenting Mcafee's Knob a lot lately, as it has proved to be a great training area for climbing.  On the hike up to the boulders it is easy to relax and get in tune with nature.  So for this post, I decided to show more of the nature I have encountered during my last few trips.